Destination: Cambodia

Itinerary: Cambodian Experience

ONE MONTH

Overlanders can run this route in reverse, setting out from Siem Reap and exiting Cambodia by river into Vietnam or Laos. Entering from Laos, divert east to Ratanakiri before heading south. From Thailand, enter via the south coast and exit via Poipet. Getting about is generally easy, as there are buses on the big roads, taxis on the small roads and buzzing boats on the rivers.

The Cambodian visa is usually valid for a month, so make the most of it by staying for four unforgettable weeks. Cambodia is only a small country and even though the roads are often bad and travel slow, most of the memorable places can be visited in a month. Setting out from the capital Phnom Penh, take in the beauty of the northeast, following the Run to the Hills itinerary. Make a choice between Ratanakiri Province and Mondulkiri Province to ensure maximum time elsewhere. The rolling hills of Mondulkiri are better for budget travellers as traversing overland is easy, while Ratanakiri is connected to the capital by plane for midrangers seeking adventure. Tough choice... can't decide? Flip a coin, if you can find one in this coinless country.

Head to the south coast, taking the route outlined in The Cambodia Encounter. Take your time and consider a night or two in Kep or one of the nearby islands, and a boat trip from Sihanoukville to explore the maritime wonders of Ream National Park. On your way back to the capital, check out Kirirom National Park, home to pine trees, black bears and some spectacular views of the Cardamom Mountains.

Then it's time to turn northwest and head to the charming city of Battambang, one of the best preserved colonial-era towns in Cambodia and a base to discover tranquil rural life and ride the bamboo train. Leave in style with a speedboat to Siem Reap, passing through some stunning scenery along the snaking Sangker River, and turn your attention to the temples of Angkor.

Visit all the greatest hits around Angkor, but use the extra time to venture further to the rival capital of Koh Ker, cloaked in thick jungle and only just opening up to visitors, or Prasat Preah Vihear, where it is all about location, location, location, a mountain temple perched precariously atop a cliff-face on the Thai border.